Training & Care

THE WESTIE PLACE

Training & Care

August Tip 1: Ear Care and Cleaning -

Ears can become quite a problem for dogs. They provide nice warm environments for nasty things to grow in. Some of the nasties include ear mites, yeasts and bacteria. Upstanding ears like a Westie's can also catch foreign objects. (The upstanding ears can also be an advantage -ears that fold over the ear canals can also be damper and make better incubators for yeast, mites and bacteria.) In addition, dogs' ears normally - just like a humans’ - produce a dark waxy material. Just like your own ears, a Westie's ears need regular cleaning. If your Westie has any ear problems, those cleanings may need to be more frequent and may require medications as well.

How do I know when the ears need cleaning ?

A regular ear cleaning should happen whenever your dog gets a grooming, or about every month or six weeks. If the hair around your dog's ears looks dark and a little greasy, then your dog is definitely ready to have his or her ears done.

How do I get rid of the hair?

Because Westies grow hair in their ears, and that hair may help to hold matter in the ear, the ear hair should be removed. Take a small tuft of the hair, roll it between your fingers and gently pull. Don't try to grab it all at once and yank it out, for this could cause your Westie a great deal of pain. If you take only a bit at a time, it will be less uncomfortable for the dog. Some people like to use forceps or tweezers to hold the hair with. For dogs who have a tendency to ear infection, it is better not to pull the hair as it may cause tiny wounds which can be a door to bacteria or harmful pathogens. In this case, you can use blunt scissors and cut the hair as much as you can to clear the air canal. Pay attention when you cut that the dog doesn't move and never go deep in the ear. You should always see the tip of the scissors.

About earwax?

If the ear is relatively, clean, you need do nothing else. If the dog's ear contains reddish-brown guk (notice the highly technical language here!) then you will need to get it out. Whatever you do, don't just stick a cotton swab down the dog's ear canal! Make sure that you always see the cotton end, being careful not to push debris back in the ear canal. I find that a swab makes a better job in the little folds. Foreign objects should be used only with very great care! Instead, you may choose to use an ear-cleaning solution.

Is there a safe way to clean ears?

There is a range of solutions for cleaning ears, from medicated liquids you can buy from a vet, to some simple home based materials. Baby oil or warm water can be used on dogs that have no particular history of ear problems. (Baby oil is better if the skin inside the ear looks dry.) Another solution that is recommended is a mixture of half water and half vinegar (the acidity has an astringent effect and makes it hard for the bacteria and yeast to grow). If the ear is a little inflamed, use 3% hydrogen peroxide mixed with an equal quantity of water. If there is a history of chronic ear problems, or if the dog is under care, use one of the products recommended by your veterinarian. There is usually an underlying cause for recurrent ear infections. For Westies, it is often allergies. If the ear is infected, a thorough cleaning is necessary before you put the medication in the ear. Afterwards, a regular cleaning (once a week) with the water/vinegar mix will often prevent the infection from recurring.

The technique for solution-based cleaning requires that you gently insert a small amount of the liquid into the dog's ear using a dropper or syringe with no needle on it. Hold the ear and at the same time, put the dog’s head down and away from you. In this position, you will be able see the ear canal. Then massage the ear thoroughly. Dogs often enjoy this process immensely. Then cover the ear opening with a cotton ball and tip the dog's head downward so gravity can help the goo get out. If the dog's ears are particularly dirty, you may want to do this several times to get them completely clean. Discard the cotton ball after each time, and use a fresh one for the next..

Finally, using another cotton ball or the corner of a dry soft towel, dry out the ear as far down as you can reasonably reach without hurting your dog. Don't go too far or you won't be able to get a cotton ball out. Repeat the process until the cotton ball comes out clean. When you let go of the dog, he or she will certainly want to shake his or her head, and may go into a head-rubbing routine. Let him or her. You may even want to help with the towel. Then do the other ear.

Diabetes Mellitus
Diabetes Mellitus, often called sugar diabetes, is a disease that strikes dogs as well as humans. This endocrine disease results from a deficiency in the production of the hormone insulin by the pancreas. This disease occurs most frequently in overweight dogs six to nine years of age and is more common among unspayed females. Juvenile onset diabetes does occur, although it is rare. There may be a genetic predisposition for diabetes mellitus in some dogs. Diabetes is a non-curable disease that ultimately affects all organs.

The cause of canine insulin-dependent diabetes remains unknown, but it is most likely caused by many factors, and many dogs develop the disease in conjunction with a number of other conditions, including Cushings syndrome.

Prognosis with daily treatment is good; most dogs have a normal life span. Diet and exercise alone can control some mild cases. Still others need injections given twice daily before regulated meals. The two most serious complications that can occur in insulin-treated diabetic dogs are hypoglycemia (low blood sugar) and cataract formation.

Clinical signs of diabetes mellitus include increased appetite and water consumption, increased frequency and volume of urination and weight loss. In more advanced cases, there is lethargy, loss of appetite, vomiting, dehydration, weakness and coma.

Diagnosis is made on the basis of history, physical examination and results of laboratory tests: urinalysis and blood sugar levels. Your veterinarian may recommend other diagnostic tests.

Treatment of canine diabetes mellitus may include daily insulin injections, urine testing, dietary management, regular exercise and avoidance or control of concurrent illnesses. Most dogs require subcutaneous insulin injections twice a day to control blood glucose concentration. The needle used is very small and the injection is nearly painless. Insulin requirements cannot be predicted solely on the basis of the dog's weight because the degree of pancreatic failure is different in every dog. Treatment must be individualized for each dog.
Daily caloric requirements are determined by the dog's weight and activity level. The amount of food is determined by dividing the daily caloric requirement by the amount of calories per cup or can of the dog's food. Feeding multiple small meals throughout the day minimizes the onset of hypoglycemia. The number of calories consumed must be constant from day to day. Insulin injections must be maintained on a strict schedule. Refinements are made in dosage and timing of injections based on results of testing and on the advice of your veterinarian.

Intact bitches should be spayed as soon as possible after the diabetes has been stabilized. Obesity can greatly reduce the responsiveness to insulin and make diabetes more difficult to control. Your veterinarian can provide a specialized gradual weight reduction plan to help your diabetic dog reach its ideal body weight.

Sandra J. Crawford
Health Committee Member
West Highland White Terrier Club of America
November 20, 2001

My dog eats feces every time he goes outside. Is this unhealthy?

Every time my dog is let outside, he ends up eating the feces of other dogs. This is a disgusting habit. Is it unhealthy, too?

Coprophagy, or eating feces, is an unpleasant but common behavior of dogs. Unfortunately, dogs can become infected with intestinal parasites by ingesting excrement, which may contain microscopic parasitic eggs. Since your pet has been eating feces, it is very important that your veterinarian evaluate a stool sample to look for infection.

There are several proposed causes for coprophagy. Boredom is one of them; the behavior is more prevalent in dogs that are crated for long periods of time without stimulation. In addition, dogs may eat their own waste as a way of "hiding the evidence" if they receive punishment for inappropriate defecation. Uncommonly, there are also some underlying medical conditions that are thought to be associated with coprophagy, such as a poor diet that is lacking in essential nutrients or vitamins. The problem also may be caused by a pancreatic enzyme deficiency.

Some behavioral experts feel that coprophagia may be related to a dog's instinctual nature to scavenge for food. It is also possible that dogs eat their feces as a way of playing, learning, and sampling their environment.

Treatment of this problem can be challenging. The first step is to keep the area where the dog voids meticulously clean. This often means following the dog and immediately cleaning up the stool.

In addition, covering the stool with an ingredient that the dog dislikes may be helpful. Compounds such as red pepper sauce or bitter-tasting substances, which are available in pet stores, may discourage dogs from eating feces. You can also try sprinkling dog food with Accent meat tenderizer or MSG -- monosodium glutamate -- since these products may help discourage the eating of stool.

Try to deter your dog from this behavior early on, before it becomes a habit that is difficult to control.

Why bother?

Chronic ear problems can be quite uncomfortable, and may lead to a great deal of trouble as your dog ages. It is always worthwhile to check with your vet if you are not certain whether there is a problem or not. One of the first hints that a dog has ear problems is if he or she shakes his or her head frequently, or rubs and scratches at his or her ears. However, dogs who do this have developed a problem so far that it is physically uncomfortable, and should be taken to a vet. A better solution is to catch the problem before it gets severe.

Cleaning ears on a regular basis can help you to detect when a problem is in the beginning stages. Another way to prevent problems is to keep the ears as dry as possible. Dry the dog’s ears when you bathe him or her and whenever he or she gets wet. This will help to keep the ears unfriendly to bacteria and fungi. If you smell a kind of yeasty smell in Pup's ears, she or he likely has a yeast infection. If the skin looks red and raw, there may be a bacterial problem, and if you notice that Pup is producing lots of earwax, or if it seems very dark, there may be some other difficulty such as mites, and again, take Pup to the vet!

Make sure if you are not sure how to do this or have doubts go to a vet!!!!!!! - do not practice on your Westie

Westie Training - Sitting

Westies are extremely intelligent. Their assertive nature must be understood and handled properly to avoid behavior problems. Most behavior problems are due to a lack of companionship, discipline, activity and exercise. Westies can be very destructive if left unattended and bored.

Teaching to Sit:

Find a quiet indoor environment with few distractions. Start by using a small piece of food to lure your dog's nose to point upward and move the treat backwards over his head so that he naturally lowers his haunches to a sitting position. Be prepared: As soon as he sits, give him the treat food. Repeat the exercise, adding the word “sit,” so the dog can learn quickly what you expect of him; rather than forcing his body into position, allow him to discover what is required on his own.

When your dog has mastered the skill in the quietness of your yard, try asking him to sit in other places like on the sidewalk. Then have him follow the instruction in a busy, distracting place, like a park. As your dog improves taper off his rewards so that he only gets a treat every third or fourth time they complete the task. Rewarding your dog occasionally can best maintain his interest in the exercise.

Scolding and physical force should never be used this will only turn your dog off. Keep your sessions short, approximately five minutes and no more then twice daily. Work with them only when they seem enthusiastic. The more successful they feel the more confident you and they become.

Malassezia Dermatitis(Yeast infection of the skin) Ad/mini10.gif

The information contained in this article is for informational purposes only and is not meant to be a substitute for the advice provided by your own veterinarian. You should not use the information contained herein for diagnosing the health of a Westie - you should always consult your own veterinarian.

Over the last several years, an alarming number of Westie owners have been seeking assistance for their Westies that are suffering from the troublesome condition of Malassezia dermatitis.

Despite countless visits to their veterinarian and an assortment of medications, their Westie’s condition just gets worse and worse. As a result, the owner becomes more and more frustrated and, all too often, the Westie ends up being abandoned at the vet’s office, relinquished to a shelter or rescue group, or euthanized.

Most often, the inquiry is a desperate plea similar to the following: "I own a Westie with severe skin allergies. We have been to the vet on numerous occasions and tried all sorts of medications, but nothing is working. My Westie is constantly itching and losing its hair. I feel so bad for him/her. Do you have any suggestions for what I can do to help him/her?"

Does this sound familiar? Is your Westie suffering from itching, hair loss, black oily skin and/or crusty skin, a musty/yeasty odor, and usually accompanied by an ear infection?

If your response is "yes," than it is quite possible that your Westie has Malassezia.

Yeast infections are especially itchy, crusty, and smelly. Often the Westie starts with a rash or a simple itching, and the skin may begin to thicken to an "elephant-like" skin appearance. The itch gets extreme, and the odor can become especially troublesome.

What is Malassezia?

Malassezia is the name of a type of yeast (fungus) that is found on both normal and abnormal canine skin and ears. On normal healthy skin, it causes no problems. To get a yeast infection, conditions on the skin surface have to change to favor the proliferation of the yeasts. Some conditions which could lead to a yeast proliferation include: high environmental humidity, an increase in skin oils (from an allergic flare up), an immune deficiency, flea and/or food allergies, or seborrhea (excessive oil production of the skin). Some Westies are actually allergic to the yeasts themselves.

There are a number of breeds predisposed genetically to yeast infections; unfortunately, the West Highland White Terrier is one of them.

How is a Malassezia infection diagnosed?

The most common way to diagnose Malassezia is with a positive identification of the organism under the microscope. Your veterinarian can take a microscope slide and press it onto the affected area, then the sticky, oily stuff that clings to the slide can be stained and examined for the organism. Other methods your vet may use include collecting the material with a cotton swab or scraping the skin and applying it to the slide. However, because Malassezia is a common resident of normal skin of dogs and cats, there may always be some doubt as to if it is the causative agent of the symptoms. Therefore, diagnosis is usually confirmed by response to treatment. (Please note: A Staph infection can have very similar symptoms as Malassezia...loss of hair, bad odor, etc. When your veterinarian takes the slide, if the yeast organism is found, it could be Malassezia; if a bacteria organism is found, it could be Staph. Treatment of Staph is very similar. Always consult with your veterinarian.)

It is important to note that before a primary diagnosis of Malassezia is rendered, other conditions should be ruled out. Allergies to contacted surfaces, reactions to medications, skin infections (like mange), and atopy (food allergy) may cause similar symptoms. The goal is to determine if Malassezia is the primary problem or is occurring secondary to another condition. In either case, the yeast infection must be cleared up.

It is also important to note that yeast infections are not contagious; however, they can recur if the underlying allergy, seborrhea, etc., is not controlled.

How are Malassezia infections treated?

Treatment can be oral, topical, or both. Topical treatment alone is not usually adequate, but since oral medications are expensive, often topical management alone is attempted first, especially if only a small body area is involved. (For localized treatment of very small areas, miconazole cream can be applied twice daily for several weeks.)

To provide an inhospitable environment for Malassezia, lipids on the skin need to be removed. There are specifically anti-yeast shampoos that we prefer, such as Malaseb (available from your vet or via mail order - the least expensive we’ve found is Valley Vet Supply at www.valleyvet.com), Nizoral (easily obtainable over-the-counter at any drug store and works well), and Micro-Tek Medicated Shampoo (a combination anti-bacterial, anti-fungal, and anti-microbial product also available through www.valleyvet.com).

The Westie must be bathed twice a week to start for several weeks. The shampoo should remain lathered on the skin for 10-15 minutes before rinsing. Occasionally, the Westie may become pruritic after topical treatment. This is not a reaction to the shampoo, but more likely it reflects the release of the toxin zymogen from the yeast cell wall as the organisms die. This reaction will resolve as the infection is eliminated. As the condition improves, the Westie should be bathed once a week for several more weeks or until the skin is clear. Leave on conditioners such as ResiCort and ResiChlor (available from your vet or via mail order - the least expensive we’ve found is at www.upco.com) have also proven to be of some benefit in some cases.

For dogs with more severe cases, or those cases which are resistant to topical treatment, oral ketoconazole (brand name: Nizoral) can be administered for several weeks (in addition to the baths). A response is generally seen within 1-2 weeks, but therapy needs to continue for an additional 3-6 weeks. Ketoconozale is very effective, but because of its potentially toxic side effects and expense, it should only be used under direct veterinary supervision.

Please note: Malassazia responds poorly to prednisone, and it should not be used as the main treatment. However, depending on the severity of any internal swelling the Westie may be experiencing, a cortisone shot and/or a short course of prednisone may be helpful in getting the Westie on the right road to recovery.

Malassezia Dermatitis

NOTE: Our Westie Angel developed this condition in August 2008. We did not have a clue what it was. We continued to take her to our regular vet who told us it was just an allergy and that Westies were prone to skin infections. Well nearly 9 Months and several thousand dollars later she still had the condition and it was getting worse. Underneath her belly was entirely black and her paws were totally raw. At this point we decided to take her to another vet. The first thing they did was a scotch tape test. They placed a piece of scotch tape on the infected area and gently pulled it off. They then put the tape under a microscope and within 15 minutes they to us it was Malassezia Dermatitis (Yeast infection of the skin). They immediately placed her on antibiotics and within three days she had nearly stopped itching. Within two weeks her hair started growning back. it has now been three months and she has all her hair back and is not itching anymore. MORAL TO THIS STORY......if we are not feeling well and our doctor can not give us answers we go to another doctor. Well the same is for our pets if our vet can not give us the answers and out pet is getting worse take them to another vet and get another opinion.